Paris
INTRODUCTION
During my time abroad I was able to explore Paris and all the different ambiances of the arrondissements. I lived in the 18th and spent my day-to-day life up in the historical Montmartre neighborhood near the Sacre Coeur or down on the bustling streets of Place de Clichy. My friends and I spent our days at cafes, thrift stores, parks, museums, or our college campus near the Eiffel Tower. Not to our surprise, at night we spent more time at beautiful Paris cafes, but we also found fun nightclubs and fancy dinners as well.
ARRONDISSEMENTS
Each arrondissement in Paris is beautiful and unique in its own way. I was fortunate enough to discover the many different personalities of each. During my time in Paris, I found the arrondissements that I liked the ambiance of and would simply walk around the area, discovering new restaurants and shops.
1st: Museum Center
The 1st arr. is home to the Louver, the Tuileries, Musee D’Orsay, and the Isle Saint Louis where Notre Dame is currently under construction. This is the oldest part of Paris and the most lavish. Prices here are a little more expensive but around each corner, there are beautiful architecture and “classic” french feels. The cafes here are chic and luxurious, perfect for a picture!
3rd and 4th: Les Marais
On the northern side of the Seine, commonly known as Les Marais, the 3rd and 4th arr. are home to my favorite thrift shops and little boutiques. Here I enjoyed my time walking around and stumbling upon beautiful parks or outdoor antique markets. This district also includes many concept stores with new and innovative fashion and jewelry.
5th and 6th: Latin District and Jardin du Luxembourg
South of the Seine, the Latin district holds bustling commerce of famous book stores and street food restaurants. Walking for a little while, Luxembourg gardens are also in this area and surrounded by some of Paris’s elite universities such as Sorbonne or SciencePo.
7th: Eiffel Tower
This is the arrondissement that the AUP campus is located in so like the 18th where I live, I spent lots of time here. My favorite bakeries are the pink and black bakeries on the corners of Rue Jean Nicot and Rue Sait-Dominique. The neighborhood is very nice and lots of bustle with workers throughout the day.
8th: Champs Elysees
This arrondissement is where you will find women with lip injections and Louis Vuitton bags but also glamorous lights, the Arch du Triumph, and top-notch displays by luxury designers. Walking down Avenue Champs Elysees is a must although I never spent much time at cafes or shops here because of the very tourist-targeted prices.
9th and 10th: Young Family Neighborhood with Amazing Restaurants
I worked for the Tidy family who lives in the 9th, babysitting their daughter Madeline so I got to know the neighborhood from an insider perspective. Seeing the day-to-day life of those who lived here I’ve come to realize it is a beautiful area with lots of families and a comforting feel. Restaurants here scatter the roads and line the streets with a warm yellow glow from their windows at night.
18th: Montmartre
My lovely Citadines Apart-Hotel was in the 18th arr and I got to know this neighborhood so well. I spent so much time on Rue des Abesses discovering the small shops, cafes, and hidden gems of Montmartre. This neighborhood was a historical district for artists such as Picasso and it’s apparent in the murals and mosaics that hide in the corners of these streets. Everything here is so cute and old-fashioned and it really does have the best of all worlds. Thrifting here is amazing and there are so many things to see. Sacre Coeur is right up the hill and although it looks down the hill on a stream of tourist souvenir shops, the cathedral brings in many explorers and keeps the streets lively. My bedroom window looked over the Cemitaire de Montmartre and it's honestly a cool place and if I was lucky I could find a few cats roaming around. This place became my home for 4 months and I learned to love living like a local.
FOOD
Grocery Stores
G20, Monoprix, Carrefour, Naturella, Intermarche
Cafes
My favorite way to find cafes would be walking around and simply stumbling upon a place that looks cute. My best recommendation for finding a cafe with good food and ambiance is 1. Although counterintuitive, sit somewhere crowded. If there's one free table try to take it because this place must be good if it's so popular. 2. Sit outside! Don’t try to find a cafe where you can have a big table and lots of space inside because they pretty much don't exist. Find a place where you can people-watch from outside and enjoy a nice view. 3. Check prices, if an espresso is more than 2.5 euros it's probably sub-par food for a heftier price. Checking the menu to see espressos under 2.5 euros and cappuccinos under 5 is a good way to see if you've stumbled upon a tourist trap. 4. Seat yourself. If it is outdoor seating, feel free to walk up and choose the table you wish, the waiter will come to you after what might seems like a long while but they usually know you're there. Also, don't be afraid to flag a waiter down, this is perfectly normal and expected for service.
Le George V Restaurant: Great chill spot for a nice ambiance at night. Located on Avenue George V, close to Avenue Champs Elysees, this is a great place to walk around as well and they have amazing strawberry mojitos.
Le New York: Little random cafe along the sine with a beautiful view of the Eiffel tower. This is a great place to stop near Trocadero.
Le Relais de la Butte: Lovely cafe up in the hills of Montmartre with an amazing view of the city and a great french breakfast.
Cafe du Marche: A chain restaurant around Paris with great Apero and a nice reliable stop for an espresso.
Restaurants
Mieux: This restaurant was recommended to me by Leila, the mother of the girl I babysit and it is Jen and Zoe Harrison approved as well. The menu changes weekly and the food was to die for. In the corner we noticed a little plaque noting its Michelin star rating but the prices were reasonable.
Briezh Cafe: Crepes that top all others, the galettes are gluten-free, and the sweet crepes are amazing as well. There are a bunch of these restaurants scattered around Paris and a good breakfast or lunch stop.
Gyros in the Marais: These famous falafel shops are a product of the Jewish community that lives in the Marias. Having a traditional pita gyro is such a treat!
Le Vrai Paris: This restaurant is unmissable on Rue des Abesses because of its amazing flower arrangement above the awning. The flowers follow inside and decorate chandeliers and walls in the dimly lit interior. The food here is amazing and most of my wine knowledge comes from the glasses that I sat and enjoyed outside.
Le Train Bleu
Pink Mamma: Amazing Italian restaurant in the 9th. There are a few other Big Mama-owned restaurants in Paris that all specialize in great Italian food and energetic ambiance. Prepare to have a reservation at these restaurants, booked far in advance, or arrive 45 min before opening for a chance at the unbooked seating.
El Chingon: I came where every Wednesday or Thursday for my entire stay in Paris. It became such a tradition to get here early too because of their happy hour that ends at 7:30 that we just could not miss. The waiter Charles-Andre with the low bun is so fun and the drinks are amazing and also only 5 euros during happy hour. The must-get on the menu here is the torta sandwich that we looked forward to every week. If there are no tortas, chicken tacos are always a safe bet. When coming to El Chingon we never forgot to have some nachos con guacamole with our happy hour drinks.
Boulangeries
PariSeven (Pink Bakery): I have been here too many times to count before, during, and after school. The ladies here know the AUP students and love to let us practice our french. Sandwiches from here hit every time and the pastries are such a treat.
Nelly Julien (Black Bakery): Previously known as the Orange Bakery before they spontaneously painted it over, this place is almost as good as the Pink Bakery and a good place to go on the 7th as well.
DAY ACTIVITIES
Thrift Stores
Free P Star: There are so many of these stores scattered around Les Marais and it's such a great place to get a good deal. They’re usually pretty crowded but there are some good finds in here.
Kilo Shop: This place is super cool because almost all the items are priced by weight. They have amazing and unique pieces here and it's very well curated. The prices are a little high but you can expect to find one-of-a-kind items so it's definitely worth it.
Vintage Desir: Oh my gosh this was one of my favorite places and I got so many cool clothes here for a good price. It’s also right next to the gyros so after a good thrift haul it's good to recharge with some falafel next door.
Cinemachine: This one takes the cake as my actual favorite place. I found this store up the street from me and immediately fell in love with it. Later while I was watching a Harpers Bazar interview with Emma Chamberlain in Paris I saw that she came here too! This place has great clothes and prices and everything about it is amazing.
Museums
Musee du Louvre: The Louvre is so beautiful and my favorite wing was the Richelieu wing which has two huge rooms with so many sculptures. I also really enjoyed some of the jewelry and artifacts in the African/Egyptian sections
YSL Museum: This museum was much smaller than the others in Paris but was very well done and gave an inside glimpse of Yves Saint Laurent as a person. It focused on the sketches of conceptual fashion ideas and processes used to create the clothing. There were also a few films that documented the uprising of the brand and its long-term influence on global fashion.
Picasso Museum: Located in the Marais, this museum housed many of Picasso's famous paintings and showcased many of his sculptures which I was unaware of but very intrigued by. This museum also followed the life of Picasso himself and all of his creative processes.
Musee D’Orsay: Here, all of the sculptures and paintings are housed inside an old train station. The museum overlooks the Seine and has a very cool layout.
Louis Vuitton Foundation: In the somewhat outskirts of Paris, this museum is a piece of abstract modern architecture that is in stark contrast to the city center just a few miles away. I was fortunate enough to see the Virgil Abloh exhibit, Coming of Age, while it was there and also enjoyed the gardens that surrounded it.
Pompidou: I never went into the Pompidou but I've seen it many times from the outside. It looks almost like a water park with many pipes and bright colors. Apparently, there is a lot of cool modern art here but the French aren't too fond of this museum and some would consider it the sore thumb of Paris architecture.
Musee Rodin: This museum was commissioned after WWII and houses many of Rodin's sculptures. The amount of work by Rodin here is extensive and almost hard to believe that it was all created by one person. Outside there are lovely gardens and of course, more sculptures.
Palace de Versailles: On the inside, the palace has beautiful architecture and surprisingly little furniture due to the auctions of possessions that happened in after the french revolution. The museum path traces through the important rooms and leads to the gardens.
L’Orangerie: This museum is on two floors but the first floor which houses the Monet Waterlilies is the most impressive. The two rooms display 8 curved panels, all 6 feet tall and coated with up to 50 layers of paint. The paintings are meant to be admired in silence and really take over the rooms.
Mugler Exhibit: Located at the Musée Des Arts Décoratifs I saw this exhibit when it was showing. Although it was only temporary it was one of my favorite visits because of the fully immersive experience.
Parks
Jardin du Versailles: These gardens stretch three square miles and have the most meticulous and precise landscaping. Scattered in the gardens are fountains, sculptures, and ponds. Although far from Paris, this day trip was so memorable and absolutely gorgeous.
Tuileries: Great place for a nice walk after the Louvre. Not quite a picnic park but it is one of the most beautiful and scattered with sculptures, fountains, and chairs.
Luxembourg Gardens: This is one of my favorite gardens, there are so many places to explore here and it can fit any vibe of the day. For example, there are chairs around the fountain, shaded areas, sports courts, and hidden paths in flower gardens. A great afternoon activity that I tried to do every Sunday was to go pick up some fresh fruit, fancy cheese, and a baguette from a local boulangerie for a picnic with friends.
Pont Alexandre III: This is not a park but still an amazing place to sit and people-watch along the sine. This bridge has beautiful golden statues up top and faces Invalides and the Petit Palais. Starting a walk here on the north side of the seine leads along a lovely path with little private boats. From the south side, I watched sunset quite a few times and enjoyed the Persian lifestyle along the river.
Eiffel Tower: These gardens have a beautiful view of the Eiffel Tower and are so spacious for a great picnic. I recommend finding a spot right in the middle of the strip where you can avoid the salesmen and sill admire the tower.
Parc Monceau: Walking distance from Montmartre, I visited Parc Monceau very often. It’s a less common park for tourists so I found it to be more tranquil and relaxing. I got a glimpse into the day-to-day Persian life here as I watched runners, workers, and students pass through on their way to their destination. This small area is always filled with positive people going about their daily lives and enjoying themselves.
Place Des Vosges: This beautiful park in Le Marais is where I would take my after-thrifting naps. It's filled with 4 beautiful fountains and lovely lawns. Close by is Hotel du Sully at #7 on the buildings that surround it and an amazing passageway back onto the main road in the Marais.
Tourist Sights
Arch de Triumph: Really cool to see from afar or underneath. It's possible to go up and view Paris from the top but I’ve never done this. Don’t run across the street as I did with Hashi if u want to make it under the arc. There's an entrance at the metro station on Champs Elysees on the side of the road.
Eiffel Tower: Amazing view from the top, definitely worth it if the lines are not too crowded. I recommend going at night to avoid waiting times and see the lights sparkle.
Champs Elysees: One of the biggest and most bustling streets in Paris. Every high-fashion French designer has a huge storefront here and it's really cool to see the constantly changing displays they have.
Sacre Coeur: Phenomenal view of Paris and gorgeous cathedral. Definitely worth the steps up and going inside is a p=must! On a few Sundays I went inside and was able to listen to the choir while admiring the stunning architecture.
Seine Boat tour Bateaux Mouches: This is the boat ride I did during my first week in Paris and it was so cool! The boat leaves from Pont Alexandre III and heads on a route that takes you from the Eiffel tower to Isle Siant Germain.
Galeries Lafayette: Huge shopping center with lots of luxury brands but also reasonable clothing too. It can be thought of as the French Nordstrom. These galleries are multi-story around a large dome in the middle that is a must-see. Taking the stairs all the way to the top, there is a rooftop terrace that overlooks the opera house too.
NIGHT ACTIVITIES
Clubs
Pachamama: A 4-story venue with great dancing music and slight Latin influence. The dress is chic and slightly fancy. Opens at 12 but the queue is so long so it's best to get there at opening hours or slightly before. Xenophobic so only french, small groups, and no boys! Tickets are 20 euros only cash and include 1 free drink
L’Arc: One of the fanciest clubs there is. Not sure how I managed to get myself in here but president Mitterrand’s grand grandson helped out our table with his presence.
Duplex: Most American and touristy crowd but easy to get into with great music and 1 or 2 free drinks included with ticket. Dress is less formal and showier.
Le Carmen: Techno club that has the appearance of an apartment when you first walk in. The dance floor is lit red and also scattered with couches and tables to give it a relaxed vibe. The entrance was free but the drinks were a little pricey inside. Dressing ~cool~ is key here.
O'Sullivan's: A chain bar with many locations scattered around Paris. Usually free for pretty girls and honestly good music if you can disregard a scrounger crowd and some creeps. My friends and I usually ended up here when we only had half the energy to go out but still wanted to do something because there was one right down the street.
Bridge Club: Coolest location under the Pont Alexandre III bridge and overlooking the seine even though it's not visible at night, you know you there. Great music and a strangely unpredictable line. Lots of music events here so check the DJ before and to see if tickets are needed. Usually, entrance is 18/20 euro but no free drink. Dress depends on the DJ but is usually similar to Duplex, less formal.
